I have made many pairs of socks using traditional sock weight yarn before, but recently I felt the need for something warmer, especially since I live in an old home. I wanted a pair of socks that scream hot chocolate by an open fire. After much exploration and experimentation, I give to you the basic worsted weight sock pattern:
Basic Worsted Weight Sock Pattern
Materials:
- Each sock requires about 120 yards of any worsted weight nylon/wool blend. For this pattern, I used Berroco Vintage Colors (52% acrylic, 40% wool, 8% nylon) in Old Jeans colorway. I found I needed 2 hanks to complete the socks as written below (217 yards per hank). If you cut down the leg size by about an inch each, you may get away with using only 1 hank for the pair.
- Size 4 DPNs
- Stitch counter
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
Abbreviations:
K = Knit
P = Purl
Sts = stitches
Sl1 = slip 1 stitch from left needle onto right needle
k2tog = Knit two stitches together
p2tog = purl two stitches together
ssk = slip two stitches from left needle onto right needle. Knit two together using front loop and knit both stitches together.
Cuff
Cast on 44 stitches and divide between 3 needles (14 sts on needle 1, 15 sts on needle 2, and 15 sts on needle 3). Join in round, being careful not to twist.
Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1 ½ inches or until desired (some folks like to knit cuffs as large as 2 ½ inches)
Leg
Knit in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until sock measures 7 inches from cast on edge. NOTE: If making larger socks, keep knitting until desired length. You will need more than 120 yards per sock if you choose to increase leg size to wear with boots.
Heel Flap
The heel flap will be worked back and forth in rows. Turn work so that wrong side is facing. Sl1, p21 sts onto one needle. Divide remaining sts evenly onto two remaining needles (11 sts on each needle).
Heel Flap Pattern:
NOTE: Slip sts purl wise for the below heel flap pattern:
Row 1 (RS): *sl1, k1* repeat in * until end of row. Turn.
Row 2: (WS): *sl1, p1* repeat in * until end of row. Turn.
Repeat above heel flap pattern 12 times. You will have completed 24 rows total (you will end on a WS). Repeat row 1 one more time to end on right side row.
Turn Short-Row Heel
Row 1 (WS): p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 3 (WS): sl, purl until 1 stitch before gap, p2tog to close gap, p1, turn.
Row 4 (RS): sl, knit until 1 stitch before gap, k2tog to close gap, k1, turn.
Continue rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked and there are no longer any gaps. You will end with a right side row.
Gusset
- With a new needle, pick up 12 sts on heel flap (Needle 1)
- With a new needle, knit across 22 sts (this is the 11 sts divided between 2 needles). This is now your needle 2.
- With a new needle, pick up 12 sts on heel flap. Then, knit across 7 of remaining 14 sts on original needle 3. You will knit the last 7 sts from original needle 3 onto needle 1 in addition to 12 sts picked up earlier on that needle for the heel gusset shaping pattern that follows.
Therefore, you will be set up as follows:
Needle 1: 19 sts
Needle 2: 22 sts (this is the top of the foot)
Needle 3: 19 sts
60 sts total
Heel Gusset Shaping Pattern:
Round 1: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: Knit across all 22 sts.
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit remaining sts. Reduced by 2 stitches in round.
18 sts remain on needles 1 and 3. Needle 2 still contains 22 sts.
Round 2: Knit all stitches in round
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 above until 11 sts remain on needles 1 and 3. In total, you will reduce to 44 sts.
Instep/Foot
Work in stockinette stitch until foot measures 1 ½ inches smaller than desired total foot length. NOTE: If you are unsure of how large to make foot, look up a foot size chart in inches to help you. For a US size 7 ½, the foot length should measure 9 ½ inches total; therefore, I would stop my instep/foot at 8 inches.
Shape Toe
Toe Shaping Round 1: Knit all sts
Toe Shaping Round 2: Knit all sts
Toe Shaping Round 3: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end
(4 sts decreased; 10 sts on needles 1 and 3; 20 sts on needle 2)
(4 sts decreased; 10 sts on needles 1 and 3; 20 sts on needle 2)
Repeat toe shaping rounds 1-3 above one more time. (9 sts remain on needles 1 and 3; 18 sts remain on needle 2)
Toe Shaping Round 4: Knit round
Toe Shaping Round 5: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end
Repeat toe shaping rounds 4-5 until 28 sts remain (Needle 1: 7 sts on needles 1 and 3; 14 sts on needle 2)
Toe Shaping Round 6: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end
Repeat toe shaping round 6 until 20 sts total remain. Divide remaining 20 sts onto 2 needles (10 stitches per needle)
Weave Toe with Kitchener Stitch
- Cut yarn leaving a 15 inch tail
- Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail
- Hold sock so that the top of the sock is facing you and the 2 DPNs are sitting one on top of the other. These needles will be referred to as “front needle” and “back needle”
Set Up:
Front Needle: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle as if to purl, LEAVING STITCH ON NEEDLE, pull yarn through.
Back Needle: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch as if to knit, LEAVING STITCH ON NEEDLE, pull yarn through.
Next:
- Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle as if to knit, slip stitch off needle, pull yarn through.
- Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on front needle as if to purl, leave stitch on needle, pull yarn through.
- Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on back needle as if to purl, slip stitch off needle, pull yarn through.
- Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on back needle as if to knit, leave stitch on needle, pull yarn through.
Repeat steps 1-4 above until sts have been worked.
Finishing
Weave in all ends, block as needed.
TADA!
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