Wednesday, January 18, 2017

5 Must-Know Knitting Hacks!

Have you ever been in a pinch to get a project done and made a silly mistake last minute? Or have you ever brought your project somewhere to realize you forgot an integral tool? Fret no longer! Check out these 5 knitting hacks I've used to get me through a potential knittastrophe: 

Knitting Hack #1 - Paperclips to the Rescue 

Problem: I've forgotten to grab stitch markers on my way out the door more times than I can count, especially during my hat phases. Nothing is worse than going to the DMV or a doctor's office knowing the wait will go to waste. 

Hack: Paperclips in various sizes act as a perfect stitch marker to prevent the waiting room blues. Simply use the natural loop of the paperclip to slip it onto your needle. I use a standard size paperclip when knitting with US size 5 - 10 needles; anything smaller than size 5 risks the paperclip slipping around and anything larger than size 10 makes it difficult to move the paperclip. Luckily, paperclips come in all shapes and sizes! Larger paperclips accommodate larger size needles and smaller paperclips (sometimes even small safety pins) accommodate smaller size needles. And what a better place to search for one than at the DMV or doctor's office - there is bound to be one hanging around there somewhere! 



Knitting Hack #2 - Rule of Thumb

Problem: Losing a measuring tape at a critical moment in a work is the most frustrating experience. Often I find it slips between the cushions of the couch or falls underneath the recliner; however, if looking around your immediate work space and inside the Narnia that is the couch proves unsuccessful, there is a solution!  

Hack: The average thumb from thumb-joint to tip measures exactly 1 inch (this excludes your nail. Additionally, this also explains the common idiom "rule of thumb"). Your thumb can be used as a fairly accurate way to measure. 

To double-check your work, a US $1 bill is a perfect ruler as well! The dollar bill measures exactly 6 inches long - fold it in half, and you have a 3 inch measuring stick. Fold it in half again, and you have a 1.5 inch measuring stick. 



Knitting Hack #3 - Don't Tear It, Repair It!
  
Problem: Ever accidentally knit a stitch when you were supposed to purl it (or vice versa), but didn't notice until a row or even several rows later? There is an easy fix for this small, silly mistake that doesn't involve tearing out many rows down into your work. 

Hack: Find the stitch connected to the mistake made a row or more into your work. Then, as they say in the movie Frozen, let it go! Slip stitch connected to the mistake off the needle and keep pulling out stitches to undo work until you have successfully pulled out the mistake or mistakes. This will tear down your project vertically and will look a lot like a ladder.

Once you have gotten past the mistake, stop any additional tearing by placing the loop of the stitch you would like to save onto a crochet hook appropriate for the thickness of the yarn you are using (see label of skein/hank for that information. In a pinch, any crochet hook smaller than the gauge yarn you are working with will do just fine). 

Then, using a crochet hook, work your way back up the "ladder" vertically until you get to your current working row by pulling what looks like the steps of the "ladder" through the loop of the stitch. 

TO KNIT your way up the "ladder": Place loop of stitch in front of yarn hanging across work like a ladder step. Then, pull yarn from behind and through loop of stitch.

TO PURL your way up the "ladder": Place loop of stitch in back of yarn hanging across work like a ladder step. Then, insert crochet hook through loop and pull yarn from in front through loop of stitch. 

To alternate knit and purl stitches, alternate above techniques. 

TIP: Always make sure the yarn you are pulling through your torn out stitches is the correct working yarn for that stitch. When tearing out many rows, it is very easy to accidentally twist or skip a "step in the ladder". 

ANOTHER TIP: If you are tearing out 2 or more stitches in a section, see below hack about a safety line. 



Knitting Hack #4 - Safety Lines Save Stitches

Problem: While knitting in a very complicated lace pattern, I soon became aware of a mistake I made that was at least 2 inches from the point I was working on. I also realized I had to tear out a whole section, not just one stitch. I could start ripping or a I could engage in the painstaking process of undoing everything I just worked so hard to complete while simultaneously trying to keep track of what row I'm in, but to save from the headache, I can combine knitting hack 3 above to only tear out the problem section. 

Hack: Floss is the perfect lightweight, flexible material to hold onto stitches you don't want to lose while tearing down the problem area of your project. Simply thread it through the stitches you would like to hold in place. 

In the knitting world, this is often called a "life line". Some knitters thread a piece of floss through their work on every row 1 of a repeated pattern (especially working with a lace pattern); therefore, if a mistake is made, the knitter can simply tear all the way down to the floss row and know that is their row 1. They can begin working again from that point onward in the pattern.



Knitting Hack #5 - Color Code Your DPNs

Problem: It is so easy to get frustrated with stitch markers when working on DPNs to finish up the crown of a hat, knit a sock, or knit a pair of mittens. I personally use the tail of my work or the heel of a sock to know where I am in the round; however, that can get frustrating for those of us that don't feel comfortable working without a stitch marker. Color coding is the answer to all of your DPN woes. 

Hack: Purchase 2 different colored sets of DPNs in the correct size needed for your project - the more these two differing colors contrast, the better. Then, when setting up your project, choose one colored needle to represent the needle 1 that marks the beginning of a new round. Then, use the other color you haven't used yet to represent the 2 or 3 remaining needles needed to complete the round.


Comment below with your favorite knitting hack or suggestions to improve the hacks listed above. Thanks for reading - happy knitting!

- Amanda 





Tuesday, January 17, 2017

How To: Worsted Weight Socks

Knitters, look no further for a comprehensive worsted weight sock pattern! I have scoured the internet and knit my own pair of test socks to devise this pattern for you all. I also recently made a pair for my grandmother - they are super cozy warm and very comfortable. I am DPN gal (sorry magic loopers), but this pattern can be easily altered to suit the magic loop technique as well because the number of stitches and patterns for various sections of the sock remain the same. 

I have made many pairs of socks using traditional sock weight yarn before, but recently I felt the need for something warmer, especially since I live in an old home. I wanted a pair of socks that scream hot chocolate by an open fire. After much exploration and experimentation, I give to you the basic worsted weight sock pattern:  


Basic Worsted Weight Sock Pattern


Materials:
  • Each sock requires about 120 yards of any worsted weight nylon/wool blend. For this pattern, I used Berroco Vintage Colors (52% acrylic, 40% wool, 8% nylon) in Old Jeans colorway. I found I needed 2 hanks to complete the socks as written below (217 yards per hank). If you cut down the leg size by about an inch each, you may get away with using only 1 hank for the pair.
  • Size 4 DPNs
  • Stitch counter
  • Tapestry needle
  • Measuring tape


Abbreviations:


K = Knit
P = Purl
Sts = stitches
Sl1 = slip 1 stitch from left needle onto right needle
k2tog = Knit two stitches together
p2tog = purl two stitches together
ssk = slip two stitches from left needle onto right needle. Knit two together using front loop and knit both stitches together.


Cuff
Cast on 44 stitches and divide between 3 needles (14 sts on needle 1, 15 sts on needle 2, and 15 sts on needle 3). Join in round, being careful not to twist.  


Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1 ½  inches or until desired (some folks like to knit cuffs as large as 2 ½ inches)


Leg
Knit in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until sock measures 7 inches from cast on edge. NOTE: If making larger socks, keep knitting until desired length. You will need more than 120 yards per sock if you choose to increase leg size to wear with boots.


Heel Flap
The heel flap will be worked back and forth in rows. Turn work so that wrong side is facing. Sl1, p21 sts onto one needle. Divide remaining sts evenly onto two remaining needles (11 sts on each needle).


Heel Flap Pattern:


NOTE: Slip sts purl wise for the below heel flap pattern:


Row 1 (RS): *sl1, k1* repeat in * until end of row. Turn.
Row 2: (WS): *sl1, p1* repeat in * until end of row. Turn.


Repeat above heel flap pattern 12 times. You will have completed 24 rows total (you will end on a WS). Repeat row 1 one more time to end on right side row.


Turn Short-Row Heel


Row 1 (WS): p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 3 (WS): sl, purl until 1 stitch before gap, p2tog to close gap, p1, turn.
Row 4 (RS): sl, knit until 1 stitch before gap, k2tog to close gap, k1, turn.


Continue rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked and there are no longer any gaps. You will end with a right side row.


Gusset


  1. With a new needle, pick up 12 sts on heel flap (Needle 1)
  2. With a new needle, knit across 22 sts (this is the 11 sts divided between 2 needles). This is now your needle 2.
  3. With a new needle, pick up 12 sts on heel flap. Then, knit across 7 of remaining 14 sts on original needle 3. You will knit the last 7 sts from original needle 3 onto needle 1 in addition to 12 sts picked up earlier on that needle for the heel gusset shaping pattern that follows.


Therefore, you will be set up as follows:


Needle 1: 19 sts
Needle 2: 22 sts (this is the top of the foot)
Needle 3: 19 sts
60 sts total


Heel Gusset Shaping Pattern:


Round 1: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
    Needle 2: Knit across all 22 sts.
    Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit remaining sts. Reduced by 2 stitches in round.
     18 sts remain on needles 1 and 3. Needle 2 still contains 22 sts.


Round 2: Knit all stitches in round


Repeat rounds 1 and 2 above until 11 sts remain on needles 1 and 3. In total, you will reduce to 44 sts.


Instep/Foot


Work in stockinette stitch until foot measures 1 ½ inches smaller than desired total foot length. NOTE: If you are unsure of how large to make foot, look up a foot size chart in inches to help you. For a US size 7 ½, the foot length should measure 9 ½ inches total; therefore, I would stop my instep/foot at 8 inches.  


Shape Toe


Toe Shaping Round 1: Knit all sts
Toe Shaping Round 2: Knit all sts
Toe Shaping Round 3: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
    Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
    Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end
(4 sts decreased; 10 sts on needles 1 and 3; 20 sts on needle 2)


Repeat toe shaping rounds 1-3 above one more time. (9 sts remain on needles 1 and 3; 18 sts remain on needle 2)


Toe Shaping Round 4: Knit round
Toe Shaping Round 5: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
    Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.        
    Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end


Repeat toe shaping rounds 4-5 until 28 sts remain (Needle 1: 7 sts on needles 1 and 3; 14 sts on needle 2)


Toe Shaping Round 6: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.    
                Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.   
                Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end


Repeat toe shaping round 6 until 20 sts total remain. Divide remaining 20 sts onto 2 needles (10 stitches per needle)


Weave Toe with Kitchener Stitch


  • Cut yarn leaving a 15 inch tail
  • Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail
  • Hold sock so that the top of the sock is facing you and the 2 DPNs are sitting one on top of the other. These needles will be referred to as “front needle” and “back needle”


Set Up:
Front Needle: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle as if to purl, LEAVING STITCH ON NEEDLE, pull yarn through.


Back Needle: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch as if to knit, LEAVING STITCH ON NEEDLE, pull yarn through.


Next:


  1. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle as if to knit, slip stitch off needle, pull yarn through.
  2. Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on front needle as if to purl, leave stitch on needle, pull yarn through.
  3. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on back needle as if to purl, slip stitch off needle, pull yarn through.
  4. Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on back needle as if to knit, leave stitch on needle, pull yarn through.


Repeat steps 1-4 above until sts have been worked.


Finishing
Weave in all ends, block as needed.

TADA!











Greetings, Fellow Knitters!

I have finally decided to take the plunge and start a knitting blog. This page will house many of the patterns I have created that I am excited to share with the world. I will also provide tutorials about various methods in the knitting world.

Please comment with suggestions/requests - I love a knitting challenge! Also, please comment with pictures of any completed projects you have created using any of my patterns or if you see a mistake that needs correcting :) 

Additionally, find me on Ravelry as ThisAmandaKnitz and on Facebook and Etsy as EducatedKnits. 

I hope you enjoy my posts - happy knitting!